Monday, October 8, 2012

Baggage (September 21, 2012)



The only baggage you can bring is all that you can’t leave behind
…………………………………………………………………………………….
You’re packing a suitcase for a place none of us has been
A place that has to believed to be seen

Lyrics from “Walk On” by U2

In the months leading up to the big move into my new house, I fantasized about unpacking in a deliriously happy frenzy.   The reality is that I’m having a really hard time doing it.  I tell myself that it’s because I don’t have enough shelf space in my closet yet.  Every day I only unpack a few articles of clothing or toiletries, and even that feels like a chore.  My big red backpack is still sitting on my bedroom floor with a heap of clothes on top of it.  Amidst black caveras (Swahili for plastic bag), books, random kitchen supplies, and pillows scattered across my tiled living room floor is my green rolling duffel bag.  I just don’t feel like dragging it into my bedroom.  So, everyday I pick through each bag or heap looking for something moderately “smart”, clean, and unwrinkled to wear.  And admittedly, today I’m wearing a shirt that I pulled out of the dirty laundry bucket.  Unpacking my navy blue Samsonite toiletry bag was downright painful.  As I forced myself to transfer things into plastic baskets, I never felt satisfied no matter how many times I rearranged them.  I’m afraid that once I am completely unpacked, I will feel just like my bags: empty.

When I look at my bags, I’m reminded of the people who gave them to me and all the places I’ve carried them.  I bought “Big Red” in Scotland in 2001 while shopping with Alice, and its yellow cover was purchased in China.  My brother, Steve gave me the green duffel as a Christmas gift before making its maiden voyage to Japan in 2003.  It somehow ripped near the zipper en route to the Dakar airport.  Nicole, another PCV, lent me some tape to repair it.  I’ll never forget trying to rip the tape with my teeth, sweat dripping down my legs as we shuffled towards the check-in counter with our carts.  It probably will retire in Uganda.  The blue Samsonite was a gift from Mom and I refuse to think about the day when I have to replace it.  

It’s not the bags I’m attached to, but my nomadic lifestyle. Honestly, I was so used to living out of my bags and staying in a different place almost every week, that I probably could have done it for the remaining nine months of my service.        

Last night I went for quick walk around my neighborhood, Nakatunya.  I walked down the dirt road past my house, weaving past a boys’ hostel, people cooking outside their houses, and little kids playing with tire tubes. Instead of doubling back, I decided to walk on Lira Road.  Lira Road is like the Highway 62 of Eastern Uganda.  It’s actually paved really well (thanks to the People’s Republic of China) and is always crowded with people riding bikes, motorcycle boda bodas, uniformed students going to and from school, mutatu taxi vans, and semi trucks travelling between Kenya and South Sudan.  Because it was just getting dark, there were lots of people out socializing around barber shops housed in little shacks, shops and bars.  For some strange reason, while walking down that stretch of Lira Road for the first time, it didn’t feel like I was in Soroti or even Uganda.  It felt like I had just arrived in an unfamiliar part of Africa.  I guess in a way I had reached a different place, just not in the geographical sense.

The smell of g-nuts (short for groundnuts, which I think are peanuts, but my coworkers debate this with me) drew me over to a woman sitting next to several Tupperware containers of g-nut sauce for sale.  I didn’t have any money on me, but I plan on going back to buy a small one so I can cook with it.   

My friend Danielle made a brilliant post on facebook this morning:

I've decided the cruel thing about life is that when you have security you want freedom and when you have freedom you want security.”

I couldn’t agree more.  Yesterday morning I woke up smelling bacon and yearned to be in my Mom’s house in Kentucky.  I’m almost certain that when I get back to Kentucky I’ll miss the smell of g-nut paste in Uganda.

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